Island
Peak 6169m also known as Imja Tse is one of the popular
trekking peak in Nepal for climbing on Himalayas. From
Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island peak in a
sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive
with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse
Glacier. The ridge rising to the south from this point
leads to the summit of Island Peak. Imja Tse not only
provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of
the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in Khumbu
region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains/
Everest , Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,516m), Lhotse
Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a
semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8463m) in
the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more
charm in climbing Island Peak. For many mountaineers
climbing Island Peak marks the beginning of climbing on
Himalayas to prepare for a big Himalaya expedition in
Nepal in later years. For some mountaineers the peak
stands for the purpose of acclimatization before heading
to bigger mountain climbing. Trekking to Kalapatthar or
Everest base camp is best suited for acclimatization
before proceeding Island Peak climbing.
The normal route for climbing Island Peak is South East
Flank & South-West Ridge Normally, the Island Peak base
camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse
and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care
should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the
event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well
acclimatized party in good conditions can make the
summit and return to the base camp in a day. However,
most of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high
camp which adds the joy of climbing and helps a safe
ascent. |