Mount Lhakpa Ri is the newly becoming famous expedition
in Tibet; and many climbers have been attracted these
days to this mountain climbing through Tibet side. It
divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is
very close to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to be
climbed Mount Everest the moment, he reaches on the top
of this mountain.
It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way
to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen
its North Col.
Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest
reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent made by French
Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988. The Fourth
ascent by Ken Mc Connell in 1991 the present expedition
teams are also using these same routes as the previous
four expedition teams had used in the past.
The Expedition starts from Kathmandu-
Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa Ri
Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few
days for acclimatization. After this base camp, you
should start your expedition ahead towards the Middle
camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and
expedition crews. Then you have to take a night's rest
in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you
reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the
height of 6400m. After this at this, point you may feel
some altitude sickness; and in case of this you should
take a couple of day's rest there. After that climbing
up ahead you reach almost at the level of East Rombuk
Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic view of
Makalu & Kanchnjunga are seen. Then you get a good look
of your route up to the Lhakpa Ri.
From ABC, start early in the morning; and you should go
crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses
and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they
are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak
Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri
until you reach at the very foot of the slope, leading
to you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are
20 -30 degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb
is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. You
have use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at
this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on
the other side you see Kharta glacier and the views of
North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up
to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From the Lhakpa Ri, a very
beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are
envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small
mountains down below there can be seen.
After reaching the summits, on your way back you can
choose the different route to get down via Lhasa the
capital of old city of Tibet. And this new route may
give you another enthusiastic and charming feeing inside
you.
Climbing Sherpa guide : We facilitate highly
professional, well trained and qualified climbing
Sherpas for your expeditions. If you take Sherpas along
with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your
each and every step of support, which makes your
climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it
gives you vigorous strength for your next day's
climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the
Sherpa guides on the expedition, are found to be
succeeded as per our past experiences. So we suggest you
to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa
guides.
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